In Filet Lace Crochet the symbol with “a square with a V on the bottom of the grid and open double square on the top is called a “LACET STITCH” and is generally defined in the instructions that looks like the diagram below:

The Lacet Stitch is completed over 2 squares and 2 rows as follows, reading a chart from right to left to complete the Lacet Stitch (not the pattern for the grid above, this is the Lacet Stitch directions only).

Row 1: 1 dc, ch 3, skip next 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, ch 3, skip next 2 stitches, dc in next.

To complete the Lacet Stitch on Row 2:

Row 2: 1 dc, ch 5, skip (ch-3, sc, ch-3) stitches, dc in next dc.

Often those of us who are thread enthusiasts wonder about those shrinking mm sizes and the increasing number on steel crochet hooks and which to try for successful thread/yarn projects.

This chart is provided as simply a guide populated by contributors who work in thread/yarn and what has worked for them.

Always do a sample swatch to check gauge with your desired hook and thread/yarn.

This chart is for information only.

DOWNLOAD PDF GUIDE below

PVeller_YARN WEIGHTS

ONE CROCHET PROJECT = ONE SKEIN OF YARN

Your all excited “no reason to buy another ball-of-yarn”, as you gaze into your “stash bin”!

STOP!

That is a good idea however, make sure you still have the required amount of yarn the one skein project calls for. Review the materials list carefully checking the yarn weight/ounces/yardage needed compared to the yarn and its weight/ounces/yardage out of your bin. Even though a one-crochet-project sounds enticing don’t forget the devil is in the details!

ONE SKEIN = weight / ounces /yardage

You may be seeing many crochet patterns offered in chart or grid form only, no written instructions. Don’t be intimidated! There are many reasons for this. One being many people have difficulty reading written crochet patterns. But, that’s not the only reason.

Some crochet techniques like Filet Crochet or Filet Lace is presented in chart form because a written out pattern would seem quite daunting to follow. To make it more universal a chart can be followed by more people as long as you have the magic Key.

The magic to following any chart is to study the “Key”. The Key tells you what the open (blank spaces) and filled squares (x’s) mean as well as how they work together. I’ve supplied an example below for you to follow in doing the Dragonfly pattern.

Filet charts come in “a grid of x’s and spaces” laid out to form a design. Some of those designs can be quite intricate and challenging. No one knows for sure who did the earliest designs, some as early as the 1800’s, but I do know there are plenty of patterns out there you will want to do once you master your skill in chart reading.

DRAGONFLY INSTRUCTIONS

Work from bottom to top, and right to left following Chart and Key.

Hook size: #7/1.50mm, Cotton thread #10 (or hook and thread/yarn desired for practicing)

Foundation chain: Ch 36, turn (chain row not shown on chart).

Row 1 RS: Dc in 9th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 2 for beginning open square), (ch 2, skip 2 chs, dc in next ch) 7 times, dc in next 3 chs, (ch 2, skip 2 chs, dc in next ch), turn. (9 open squares, 1 filled square)

Row 2 WS: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2, now and throughout), skip ch-2 space, dc in next dc (first beginning open square), ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 space, dc in next dc, (ch 2, skip ch-2 space, dc in next dc) 7 times, turn. (9 open squares, 1 filled square)

Rows 3-10: Continue to follow Chart and Key. Fasten off.

Now you are ready to crochet Filet Lace and below are some lovely patterns you can do.

A crochet hook size provided in the Material’s List of your pattern is very important information.

HOOK SIZE + YARN SIZE will determine the projects FINISHED SIZE (approximately, your own tension will alter size too). Doing a practice swatch before beginning and measuring periodically as you crochet your project, will keep you on track. Look for GAUGE information in the pattern.

Because we want lace to be FINE and/or  sweaters to be BULKY you need materials and hooks in different sizes to achieve the desired and expected result.

Hooks come in steel, aluminum, plastic and bamboo. You should try what feels good in your hand, if you find your hand is getting tired or stressed it could be the wrong hook (or you’ve been crocheting too long!), switch to maybe a bamboo that will be warmer in your hand.

Be cautious when choosing and switching to stay with the same manufacturer – they all do size a bit differently.

Check out this link regarding hooks and needles.

♥♥♥I love this question, thank you for asking!♥♥♥

You can find me:

Pamela’s Patterns on Etsy

• You can follow me on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter to hear about what I’m working on and what is coming.

ABSOLUTELY! I can help.

Send me an eMail right away with the PATTERN NAME and the Row or Rnd you are having difficulty on. I respond within 24-48 hours (or less!). Give me as much information as you can so I can help you continue! 

Contact information can be found in the Copyright area of your purchased Pamela’s Pattern.

If your difficulty is a specific technique like making color changes or learning how to do a Puff stitch for example you should watch some videos to help you along if you haven’t done these before…..don’t get frustrated, sometimes watching someone else do it moves your skill set along seamlessly! I have found that Red Heart Marly Bird is especially helpful, I go there from time to time for refreshers or to learn something new to bring to you!

No, all Pamela’s Patterns come in PDF format electronically. This is the most widely used software format for sharing, downloading and reading.

The software is FREE from Adobe, get the Adobe Reader specific to your computer, Adobe helps you decide!

YES! Open the PDF file > click VIEW on the menu bar > select the viewing option you desire.

ONE CROCHET PROJECT = ONE SKEIN OF YARN

Your all excited “no reason to buy another ball-of-yarn”, as you gaze into your “stash bin”!

STOP!

That is a good idea however, make sure you still have the required amount of yarn the one skein project calls for. Review the materials list carefully checking the yarn weight/ounces/yardage needed compared to the yarn and its weight/ounces/yardage out of your bin. Even though a one-crochet-project sounds enticing don’t forget the devil is in the details!

ONE SKEIN = weight / ounces /yardage

♥♥♥ YES! ♥♥♥ FLEX! ♥♥♥ CHANGE HOOK! ♥♥♥ REST! ♥♥♥

♥♥♥ YES! ♥♥♥ FLEX! ♥♥♥ CHANGE HOOK! ♥♥♥ REST! ♥♥♥

♥♥♥ YES! ♥♥♥ FLEX! ♥♥♥ CHANGE HOOK! ♥♥♥ REST! ♥♥♥

It’s sometimes difficult and the last thing you ever want to do is to put a crochet project down to give your hands (arms, shoulders, head too!) a rest. But, that is the best thing you can do if you plan on crocheting the rest of your days :p)

A note about changing your hook. If you use a metal hook switching to a wooden/bamboo one can help. The wood/bamboo hooks will take in the warmth of your hand and you’ll last a little longer. But, still resting is the best thing you can do to help you with hand-fatigue. Try putting your project down after crocheting about 20-30 minutes, flex out those fingers, roll your shoulders and rest for a bit. Your hand will tell you how it feels as soon as you pick up that hook again. Remember this is an enjoyable hobby for most of us and shouldn’t hurt!

I have found my go-to to be Marly Bird’s videos at Red Heart she explains how to do this seamlessly “CHANGING COLORS AND STRIPES”! 

She even shows you how to change colors at the END of a row and in the MIDDLE of a row of crochet as a perfect way to incorporate multiple colors into any crochet project.

PRACTICE ♥♥♥ PRACTICE ♥♥♥ PRACTICE ♥♥♥ PRACTICE ♥♥♥ PRACTICE

TIPS

• When you switch yarn, choose a comparable weight for each of your main color selections. If you choose a thread mixed in with a Medium-4, you will see a significant size difference in your block or row.

• When you weave in ends, only weave in the color block that is appropriate for that color.

• If you are working in the round you change the same way you would on a flat project.

There are more and more video’s being put on the internet all the time. I have found my go-to to be Red Heart. I love Marly Bird!

I use The Craft Yarn Council for stitch definitions and abbreviations as well as other source material.

Yes!

Once you have purchased one of my patterns, you may sell the finished item. Typically, patterns are for one-to-one individual use or gifting to another, not for bulk resale.

If you decide to resale in bulk, please contact me. As a courtesy, please clearly credit the Pattern Design to me, Pamela’s Patterns or Pamela Veller Crochet, and provide a link to my website or shop. Pamela’s Patterns and Pamela Veller Crochet is covered under ©Copyright Law.

Do not use my photos when selling your work as this can be misleading for your potential customers. Do not sell, reproduce or distribute my patterns in any manner or format.

Periodically I do offer discounts on Etsy in the form of coupons.

Just put the coupon code name where appropriate in the cart and bingo you will receive your discount automatically.

YES! All of my patterns are offered in my Etsy Shop “Pamela’s Patterns”.

Pamela’s Patterns on ETSY

Not any longer.

CRAFTSY was acquired by BLUPRINT.com.

I am not currently using BLUPRINT in any way. HOWEVER, if you purchased a pattern from me on CRAFTSY you can still access it by signing in with your information on BLUPRINT.

Visit my shop at Pamela’s Patterns for more great crochet designs!

Recently heard that CRAFTSY is coming back we will have to see 7/2020.

Once your payment clears, your pattern will be available on the Sellers’ website you purchased from, you can download from there.

See ETSY Help guidelines for more information.

I do sometimes make items that are custom designed. You can contact me by email for a quote.

Absolutely! Send me an email message, include the Pattern Name and the area of the pattern you are having difficulty. I will try my best to respond within 24-48 hours (or less).

Compare crochet pattern writings in the early 1900’s to just a few years ago and you will find writing styles of the “Designers/Publishers” in constant change, completely arbitrary.

In the last few years especially with the onset of the Internet – many designers/crocheters like you/crochet organizations/publishers are pushing for “standards” and not just in Crochet, but Knitting too. The Craft Yarn Council is an organization that is quickly pulling all this together (World-wide) and for those of us who are most affected are glad to see it!

Having a standard means less confusion and patterns sitting around because we can’t figure out the directions! So, I use the standards for crochet as they are being defined and published by the Craft Yarn Council. Find out more about them – follow link to their webpage <click here>.

You will find topics for Crochet and Knitting as well that covers;

Industry Standards

• Introduction
• Crochet Abbreviations
• Crochet Chart Symbols
• Crochet Patterns – How to Read
• Knitting Abbreviations
• Knit Chart Symbols
• Knitting – How to Read Pattern
• Wraps Per Inch (WPI)
• Project Levels
• Standard Body Measurements/Sizing 
  • Baby Size Chart
  • Child/Youth Size Charts
  • Woman Size Charts
  • Man Size Chart
  • Head Circumference Chart
  • Foot Size Chart
  • Hand Size Charts
• Standard Yarn Weight System
• Sistema de Peso Estandar para Estambre
• Système Standard de Grosseur
• Schematics
• Hooks & Needles
• Steel Hooks & Crochet Threads
• Downloadable Skill and Yarn Weight Symbols
• Yarn Label Information
• Care Symbols
• Downloadable Guidelines PDF

All my patterns are written using US Crochet Standard language and abbreviations and includes all objects as charts and pics, stitches used and special stitch definitions, material list, finishing instructions and more as needed. 

*Where noted, I consult a professional editor who checks my patterns for proper pattern language and abbreviations used.